Asia Travel Adventures

Tokyo is full of surprises. Above are photos of a 3-D cat video perched atop a building and Godzilla’s head looming above another. 

Shibuya Crossing—one of the world’s busiest pedestrian intersections—sees more than two million people cross daily. 

Omoide Yokocho, or "Memory Lane," with its narrow alleys lined with weathered wooden food stalls, aromas of grilled meats, and nighttime haze of smoke, steam, and glowing lanterns, feels like stepping back in time. Its history traces back to the post–World War II black markets that emerged after Tokyo was left in ruins. Today, it sits in the shadow of modern skyscrapers—a vivid reminder of the city’s transformation into one of the world’s largest urban centers and a major financial hub. Tokyo’s evolution reflects the resilience and forward-looking spirit of its people. 

Other places we visited in Tokyo included Tsukiji Outer Market—where many of the original fish stalls remain—Meiji Shrine, Senso-ji Temple, the Imperial Palace gardens, and the observation decks at Tokyo Skytree and the Metropolitan Government Building. We also took a cruise on Tokyo Bay. We came across many unique shops, such as one dedicated to pet fashions—including a cowboy outfit for dogs. Throughout Japan, we spotted sporty-looking pets dressed to impress. 

The poster shown above was on a train station wall. Despite Tokyo's immense population, we saw almost no litter, heard no loud voices, found spotless public restrooms, and felt safe everywhere we went. Residents were polite and waited at crosswalks even when no cars were around.

High-tech smart toilets were everywhere in Japan. They can feature automatic lids and seats, front and back bidets with warm-water jets, adjustable water pressure, heated seats, deodorizers, sound masking, warm-air dryers, auto-flush, UV sanitization, and even massage options. The control panels were intimidating—we hesitated to press anything. Still, the heated seats were a welcome comfort in the cool weather.

From Tokyo, we boarded the Shinkansen bullet train to Kyoto, a smaller and more traditional city. Our timing was perfect—the day after we arrived, Kyoto held its annual “Festival of the Ages,” a parade celebrating the city’s founding with participants dressed in historical attire.

Kyoto and its surroundings are home to countless temples and shrines. In Japan, temples are Buddhist and often house statues of Buddha or include pagodas, while shrines belong to the Shinto tradition and are marked by their torii gates. The vermilion torii gates in the photo above are from Fushimi Inari Taisha, a major Shinto shrine where a path winds through a tunnel of gates toward the summit of Mount Inari. Altogether, the shrine grounds contain about 10,000 torii gates.

We hiked along a path in the Arashiyama Bamboo Forest. The bamboo there reaches about 20 meters (65 feet) high.

Later, we toured a sake museum in Kyoto’s Fushimi Sake District, learned about the brewing process, and sampled ten varieties. Hanging above us was a sugidama, a cedar ball traditionally displayed by sake breweries. On our way back to the train station to return to our hotel, we stumbled upon a lively beer festival—a cheerful surprise. As they say in Japan, ‘Kanpai!’ During our stay, we also took a day tour to Nara and Uji.

Our next stop, Osaka, was a short train ride away. The city is known for its incredible street food and bustling markets, and its signature dish is takoyaki, or "octopus balls"—octopus-filled batter cooked in round molds. Osaka Castle, sitting high on a hilltop and surrounded by moats and stone walls, glowed majestically at night. The city's nightlife was vibrant, especially in the neon-soaked Dotonbori district. From the Umeda Sky Building’s observation deck, an ocean of lights stretched to the horizon.

Osaka was our final stop in Japan before heading to Thailand. We loved the country—its energy, people, and culture—and were thrilled we’d be back later in our travels.

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While planning our trip, Karen and I booked a group sightseeing tour of Thailand that began in Bangkok. Before it started, we spent a few days wandering the bustling metropolis on our own. Traffic was so congested that moving just a few blocks could take an hour. Water taxis were faster, skimming along the river with ease, though their routes were limited.

We enjoyed delicious food at the sprawling Chatuchak Market, one of the world’s largest weekend markets with over 15,000 stalls. Throughout our Asia travels, we tasted incredible dishes and even took cooking classes in both Thailand and Cambodia.

We explored the Jim Thompson House Museum, dedicated to the American silk entrepreneur and art collector who lived there and mysteriously disappeared in 1967 while walking in a Malaysian jungle. Theories about his fate range from an accident or tiger attack to possible links to his past intelligence work with the OSS, the forerunner of the CIA. Despite extensive searches, he was never found.

After a few days on our own, it was time to join the tour group. We stopped at Maeklong Railway Market a few hours outside Bangkok, where a passenger train barrels through several times a day. As it approaches, merchants quickly pull back their awnings to avoid getting hit. The train rumbles past only inches from the stalls and spectators, and moments later the awnings are back in place and business carries on as usual.

Nearby was Damnoen Saduak Floating Market, where we rode in a long-tail boat through scenic canals, pausing at stalls selling food, clothing, souvenirs, and even beer.

We visited countless temples and encountered Buddha statues in every style and size across Thailand. One of the most striking sights was a Buddha head—once part of a statue—now entwined within the roots of a tree.

From Bangkok, the group flew to Chiang Rai, and the next day we visited Chiang Saen, a town in the Golden Triangle where Thailand, Myanmar, and Laos meet. The term “Golden Triangle”—coined in 1971—refers to the region’s once-massive opium trade. While Thailand and Laos have largely moved away from the opium industry, Myanmar remains a major producer.

We toured the House of Opium Museum and took a long-tail boat ride along the Mekong River. On the Laos side, we passed sprawling casinos and hotels in the Golden Triangle Special Economic Zone, a state-run district created by the Lao communist government to attract foreign gamblers.

After a night back in Chiang Rai, we continued on to Chiang Mai, our next stay. One of the highlights there was visiting the ChangChill elephant sanctuary. The elephants had previously worked in tourism or logging before finding refuge at the preserve. Unlike many places, ChangChill does not allow elephant rides; instead, visitors hike along forest trails and observe elephants roaming freely. In the video above, one elephant sneaks food from another and gets scolded—we could actually feel the thud of the impact.   

From Chiang Mai, we flew to Phuket (pronounced "poo-ket"). We spent the next couple of days exploring the islands: paddling through limestone caves at Koh Talu, where macaques huddled on a ledge and a large water monitor rested nearby; visiting Khao Phing Kan—"James Bond Island"—made famous by The Man with the Golden Gun; and taking a ferry to the Phi Phi Islands (pronounced "pee-pee") for snorkeling in clear turquoise water. After returning to Phuket each evening, the group eventually flew to Bangkok for a final dinner and to say our goodbyes. 

We were reluctant to leave Thailand—we loved its tropical beauty, captivating culture, and openhearted people—yet the thrill of discovering Cambodia was just ahead.

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Karen and I flew to Siem Reap, Cambodia. At the time, tensions were rising along the Thailand–Cambodia border, but there were no travel restrictions. A few months later, the U.S. government issued a warning to avoid traveling within 50 kilometers of the border due to escalating hostilities. The advisory didn’t apply to air travel, so flights continued as normal.

In Siem Reap, we hired a guide and a driver to explore Angkor Wat and the surrounding temples. Built in the early 12th century during the rise of the Khmer Empire, Angkor Wat is the largest religious monument in the world and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Spanning more than 400 acres, it is believed to have been one of the most populous urban centers of the pre-industrial world during the 13th century.

The complex is filled with magnificent stone carvings and intricate bas-reliefs, including one that resembles a stegosaurus (shown above) and another depicting apsaras (also shown above), celestial nymphs and dancers from Hindu mythology later adopted into Khmer Buddhist imagery. Much of the site blends jungle and temple, with massive tree roots weaving through the crumbling stonework of Ta Prohm, nicknamed the “Tomb Raider Temple” after its appearance in the film.

At one point, we came across a small monkey troop near the temple grounds. One bold macaque climbed onto a parked car, clearly hoping for a handout, but the whole group scattered the moment a little pig wandered into the scene.

I got my hair cut in Siem Reap, where the barber spent 45 minutes carefully working on my hair while his brother watched, eager to learn. We didn’t share a language, but a picture of a previous haircut did the trick. A local later told me I should have paid three dollars instead of five, but it still felt like a bargain. In Cambodia, U.S. dollars stretch far—about 4,000 riels to one dollar—and lodging, food, tours, and transportation were remarkably affordable. Our hotel, with its gracious service and beautiful setting, cost far less than anything comparable in the U.S. While the riel is the official currency, U.S. dollars are widely accepted alongside it.

Siem Reap’s markets offered a wide range of foods, including unusual ones like grilled snakes, fried spiders, scorpions, grubs, crickets, and grasshoppers. The crickets were surprisingly tasty; the grubs less so, and I didn’t venture beyond those two. Nearby, Pub Street buzzed with bars, restaurants, and clubs. 

Cambodia’s people have endured profound hardships. We occasionally saw older men with missing limbs—reminders of landmines buried during decades of conflict. Millions have been cleared under an international ban treaty, yet many remain in remote areas. The country also continues to grapple with the trauma of the Khmer Rouge era, a legacy that will affect generations. Poverty levels have declined in recent years, but it remains a challenge. Despite these difficulties, everyone we met was kind, hardworking, and eager to help—people truly deserving of opportunity.

Our time in Cambodia was unforgettable. Though our stay was coming to a close and we were sad to leave, we were also excited for Vietnam, our next stop. 

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Hanoi amazed us with its entrepreneurial energy, especially in a country governed by a communist system. Market-oriented reforms have created a favorable business climate, helping turn Vietnam into one of Asia’s fastest-growing economies. The streets buzzed with motorbikes zipping by, often hauling astonishing loads—including one we saw transporting a family of five. Watch the video above to see the rush of traffic as the gates open right after a train rumbles through Hanoi's vibrant Train Street.

A cyclo driver and a taxi driver got into a heated bidding war for our fare, which worked in our favor as the price dropped dramatically. Eventually, we had to choose. The taxi driver swung open his doors, waving us in, but we picked the cyclo driver (pictured above), thinking it would be more fun. It was—and an adventure—as we wove through crowded streets. When the driver pedaled through a red light, Karen shouted, "It’s red!" but he just laughed and kept going. No one seemed to pay attention to traffic lights or stop signs, yet there were no accidents. Amid the chaos, everything flowed in perfect sync. 

Food markets were everywhere in Hanoi, each bursting with color, noise, and sizzling street-food aromas. At one, we felt sorry for the caged turtles on display, awaiting their fate as someone's meal.

Vietnam is the world’s second-largest coffee producer, and in Hanoi it feels like there’s a café on every corner. The star is the iconic egg coffee, created by Café Giảng  in 1946 and now served citywide. At Giảng, egg yolks and sweetened condensed milk are whipped into a thick, frothy custard layered over strong Vietnamese robusta coffee—the exact recipe remains a family secret. Stir gently, sip, and savor. Hanoi’s coffee scene also features creative drinks such as coconut coffee, salt coffee, and peanut butter coffee.

We went to Bún chả Hương Liên, where President Barack Obama and Anthony Bourdain shared a meal during a 2016 episode of Parts Unknown. The restaurant became an instant tourist attraction afterward. They preserved the table, plastic chairs, and place settings from that night in a protective display, like a museum exhibit. We felt awkward snapping photos while others were eating, but no one seemed to mind.

Vietnam’s water puppetry tradition has thrived for more than a thousand years. It began with farmers standing waist-deep in flooded rice fields, hidden behind a screen as they maneuvered wooden puppets with bamboo poles and strings beneath the water. The performances depicted scenes from village life, folk tales, and legends. Today, venues like the Thăng Long Puppet Theatre keep the craft alive, with shows accompanied by live music—lutes, drums, bells, cymbals, flutes, dulcimer, monochord, and zither—while two singers narrate the stories. Performances run daily and last about an hour. Watch the short clip above.

After the puppet show, we crossed the street and strolled along Hoàn Kiếm Lake, watching locals practice group exercises, dances, and tai chi. As night fell, the surrounding roads closed to traffic, as they do every weekend. Lights from Ngọc Sơn Temple and Turtle Tower—both set in the lake—shimmered across the water. Music from an outdoor concert filled the air as street performers, food vendors, and souvenir stalls took over the roads. Above the crowds, rooftop bars glowed, and Bia Hơi Corner—also known as Beer Street—transformed into a lively party scene.

We took a day trip to Ninh Bình, about a two-hour drive from Hanoi. There, I climbed a steep stone staircase of roughly 500 steps to reach the Lying Dragon statue and the pagoda at Múa Cave. The views—limestone cliffs, a winding river, and rice fields—were stunning. Later, we took a sampan boat ride along the Ngô Đồng River in Tam Cốc, gliding past towering karst peaks and through several caves. The woman rowing used her feet to paddle and chatted with us using Google Translate on her phone. As we passed a group of people waving, she said they were her family, so we waved back with big smiles. 

It was hard to believe our time in Vietnam was nearly over. We’d grown attached to the friendly people, beautiful scenery, and enchanting atmosphere. Yet we were also looking forward to returning to a country we had visited earlier...

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As we planned the end of our journey, Karen and I decided to finish where it began—Japan. A two‑night stopover felt like the perfect way to unwind and prepare for the long flight home. Staying near Narita Airport, Tokyo’s main international gateway and our original arrival point, was convenient. Plus, Naritasan Shinsho‑ji Temple—which we’d been eager to visit—was nearby. We booked a hotel with free shuttles to both the airport and the JR Narita train station, and from the station the temple was just a short walk.

We took the shuttle to the station and wandered down Omotesando Street in Narita, which slopes gently toward the majestic Naritasan Shinsho-ji. This historic street has been a pilgrimage route for centuries, lined with shops and restaurants in traditional wooden buildings that give it an old-Japan charm. Grilled eel is a local specialty—you can stand on the sidewalk and watch live eels being prepared and cooked right in front of a restaurant. The temple, founded over a thousand years ago, is a sprawling Buddhist complex with gates, pagodas, halls, gardens, and a wooded park rising above the street. Over time, it has become one of the region’s most important spiritual destinations.

As evening fell, we left the temple and made our way back up Omotesando Street toward the train station to catch the hotel bus. The crisp air carried the aroma of grilled eel, shop lights cast a warm glow, and a crescent moon hung over the rooftops. It was bittersweet knowing we’d be flying home the next day.

Our trip had been full of unforgettable moments—exploring new cultures, taking in stunning scenery, art, and architecture, and meeting many warm, welcoming people. Six weeks, four countries, countless memories—and one simple truth: no matter where you go, people are people, all carrying the same hopes and dreams.

• Gregg Rottler

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